John Hellum September 2007
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The Village Epicure
Outward-bound (on the coast and the waist)
Adventures in Food and Drink
For thirty years I have lived off and on in Qualicum Beach and the way the town (that was a village) has grown has me head spinnin’. It has always been a resort town and scenically beautiful but had lacked many good eating establishments apart from the few motels and hotels with dinning rooms that served good home style cooking and one or two that were more upscale with ‘Chefs, Maitre d’s, Continental cuisine and table service.’ There just wasn’t much variety.
However after three decades that has changed dramatically, though with a small ’d’. It is after all, Qualicum Beach. You can dine out and pretty much satisfy any craving and accommodate any diet restriction without giving it a thought. The influx of so many new residents has created a more cosmopolitan cross section of tastes that has new eating establishments springing up that reflect this change of flavor.
For the tried and true you will find the restaurants considered “Diners” for the Canadian comfort foods that are familiar to most of us: meat, taties, peas and corn; mac and cheese; simply prepared entrees of fish, chicken pork , beef etc…with green salad, a soup and a sweet to finish.
Then there is the “Bistro”. This ambiguous moniker has become the catch darling umbrella to cover a multitude of restaurant styles and sins. Most are good and represent casual dining with more finesse in food preparation. Others use the description to sell themselves as being more upscale when in fact they are a dump.
I am always wary when the establishment touts itself as a ’modern bistro with fusion style cuisine’. However, I digress… You’ll find two very good “bistros” in Qualicum Beach. On is “Lefty’s” located in the centre of town at the main intersection of Memorial Avenue and Fern Road. This bistro is a going concern. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and/or just a coffee, a glass of wine, a beer or a cocktail. The menu flects the tastes of current food trends (and heeds heart smart, vegetarian, gluten free, lactose intolerance, diabetics etc.) all are prepared in house with fresh ingredients, care and presented with style. The service is always courteous though at times in can be slow because it gets so busy, but you can forgive them the odd hiccup as they will try to accommodate or solve any problems that may arise. Not often found in the service industry in these modern times. The prices are moderate, the coffee organic and locally roasted, and the washrooms are clean. A solid bet. “Lefty’s”, 710 Memorial Avenue, Qualicum Beach. (250) 752-7530. www.leftys.tv
The other bistro is the “Red Radish” located uptown on 2nd Avenue. This establishment is a little more upscale though moderately priced. Here the décor is reminiscent of a modest Tuscan-style trattoria; warm colors, draperies, tablecloths, napkins. Her too the menu reflects current food trends but they maintain some classic comfort food dishes; shepherd’s pie, chicken pot pie, various specials. These along with requisite burgers, grilled sandwiches, soups, salads, steak sandwich with French fries (they use a mixture of sweet potatoes and regular potato fries with aioli). They have a lunch and a dinner menu. Dinner time sees a transformation with a more formal look – the menu is more upscale, not serving some of the luncheon items, and it includes an evening specialty menu. They have a wine list that supports Canadian estate wineries. There is also a small selection of imports from the U.S. Australia and Italy. There is a small but comprehensive cocktail menu, beer selection, liqueurs and special after dinner coffees. With candle-lit ambience, charming surroundings one can relax and enjoy an excellent meal. Here again excellent coffee and superlative loose tea selection (no short cuts here). Prices are moderate, service efficient and washrooms spotless (handicap accessible). “Red Radish” #4-180 West 2nd Avenue, Qualicum Beach. (250) 752-6693. www.redradishbistro.com
For traditional Fish and Chips the town is well represented by a restaurant named “Fish Tales”. This is a must-go-to when eating in Qualicum Beach. This mock-Tudor house (with outdoor dinning in the garden during summer) has an extensive seafood menu that will delight visitors from the prairies or any other seafood aficionados. You can choose how you want your fish prepared- sautéed, poached, baked or deep-fried, so you can eat your fish with impunity or virtue. I’m all for battered abandon and deep fried excess with french fries and tartar sauce. Bring it on! Fish Tales, 3336 West Island Highway, Qualicum Beach. (250) 752-6053. www.fishtalescafe.com (Reservations a must).
One of the most recently opened establishments is a Tapas bar (small plates). A soup and sandwich with light entrees by day that flips over to a cool, hip, elegant tapas bar at night. The “694 Tapa Room” is eponymously named being located at 694 Memorial Avenue, a main highway through the town. With a newly refurbished interior they are causing a stir in the locale. The Tapas menu is extensive enough to satisfy all tastes; seafood, chicken, pork, beef, vegetarian. The dishes are well prepared with thought put into taste and presentation. Lots of style backed up with solid cooking skills. They have a good wine selection with many available by the glass or carafe, a good cocktail menu and dessert coffees. Unfortunately they do not serve espresso coffees but they have excellent drip coffee and a good tea selection.
Every dish is moderately priced, the service is courteous and friendly, the washrooms are clean. For those of you who don’t like to eat large portions this is the ideal answer. You can share two or three Tapas and desert, not feel uncomfortably full and yet satisfied. Good bang for your buck. 694 Tapa Room, 694 Memorial Avenue, Qualicum Beach. (250) 752-0301. Directions
For those who want amore exotic taste the town has a small but growing choice of ethnic establishments. If you crave Japanese there is Sushi-mon. This intimate but excellent enclave has been consistently good since the day it opened under owner Wes Erikson in 2005. The Chef who creates the magic is Ky Taniguchi who joined the team, also in 2005, while just visiting from Langley, where he was living. His impeccable training and discipline is what keeps the quality high and always popular. The dishes are moderately priced (which for fresh fish today is a bargain), the beer selection very appealing, service courteous, and yes, clean washrooms. Sushi-Mon, 133 West 2nd Avenue, Qualicum Beach. (250) 752-5199. www.sushimon.ca
The towns Chinese restaurant “Canton 88” is located in the center of town with lots of parking available at night. The food is typical small town Chinese restaurant familiar to us all across Canada. However, as familiar as the menu might be presumed, here the owners have introduced ethnic dishes from Hong Kong, Shanghai, Szechwan and Singapore. They also have a good BBQ Duck served as a quarter piece over rice, half cut up, or whole cut up. The vegetarian selections are deliciously varied and will not disappoint. Madame Chan, the owner and server, along with her son Alan, (very much a family affair), will be only to glad to help you order from the extensive selection and with your Cantonese and Mandarin as well. Now that’s service. They also have take away. “Canton 88” 125 West 2nd Avenue, Qualicum Beach. (250) 752-2198.
I’ll continue this epicurean outward-bound next month and relay more places of gastronomic interest for your traveling pleasure. So until then, “Good eating in the epicurean waistland”.
— John Hellum.