John Hellum November 2007

John Hellum, Man About Town

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Oktoberfest
Ein, zwei, Gsoufa!
(Trinken, Tanzen, und farhten
across the Island)

The leaves have turned red and gold, the grapes have been harvested, the pigs have been slaughtered and have been made into speck, wurst, schnitzel and schweinhaxen; every part is used for something delicious especially with beer.

Ah, the beer. Gott in Himmel, the beer! Rivers of it flow between mountainous banks of food that proliferate and multiply for a few weeks of the year into a gargantuan drinking and eating frenzy.

Also, last but not least, that salient aspect that immortalizes Oktoberfest worldwide in a phrase “Oompah-pah” – the music (or blechmusik). Say that phrase anywhere in the world, and no matter what language they speak, most, if not all will open their eyes wide and nod enthusiastically saying “Oui, Da, Hai, Yeah, with comprehension. It has become an international industry in its own right. You can find an ersatz Bavarian Oktoberfest in places that would seem very unlikely such as Ulan Baton, Mongolia; Tokyo, Japan; Beijing, China; Monte Video, Uruguay; just to name a few. It’s possible the influence of the 13th century invasion of the Huns into Europe may be cause to argue a case of relevance for these more eastern countries – but it’s tenuous at best.

However although Attila never reached the shores of Vancouver Island, German immigrants did and so here in Nanaimo and Port Alberni there is a strong tradition of Oktoberfest. Every year the German Cultural Societies puts on a celebration with all the food and drink you can possibly consume (and that’s a generous Bavarian- style possibility the size of a Kleine Swartzwalde walder Berg). This in turn provides one with enough fuel to dance all night – that is if you’re not over whelmed from so much Bavarian abundance and Gemutlichkeit.

The dancing is a serious part of Oktoberfest, and is non-stop polkas and waltzes played by crack bands with names like “The Bavarian Baden Boys” or “The Really Bad Baden Band” or “The Lederhosen Liftoff” (or should that be ‘Lufthof’ hmmm?). These boys, and sometimes girls, really know how to swing it and have what seems to be unlimited energy and lung power, only taking short breaks so they can down a cold beer, visit the washroom, and for us to catch our breath, down a cold beer, or visit the etc., etc…

You will hear all the favorite standard tunes: Ein Zwiei, Gsoufa, Rosamunde, Musse Desn, The Holtzhacker Polka, Auch, Du Lieber Agustin! These are an endless supply of tunes to dance to. Of course no dance would be complete without the Klapsen Tanz (or slap dance in English). This is where two, four, six or more (but always an even number) folk dancers, dressed in lederhosen, mount the stage and proceed to dance to highly syncopated tunes going through elaborate pat-a-cake routine slapping in time to the music using all parts of their own and each others bodies. Yes, their backside too. Bavarians love ribald humor.

The food (and how much variety there is) is also a good indication as to how good the Oktoberfest you’re attending is rated.

The competition among societies is fierce as to who throws the best party. The vying for this proud reputation means that the food will have at least a basic selection of Wurst… such as Weisswurst, Bratwurst, Knackwurst, plus sauerkraut, pretzels, potato salad and Kaiser buns. A really good fest will have several additional sausages varieties plus schweinhaxen (braised pig hocks in beers), maultaschen (German ravioli) and all served with mustard. Remember, for Germans, sausage is King.

However, if sausage is King then Desserts are the Queen and what doesn’t shout “oompah-pah louder than Schwartzwalder torte – Black Forest cake. This iconic dessert is the star attraction at any Oktoberfest meal. Here the competition is particularly fierce (though not vicious – yet) as to who makes the best. You’ll find other traditional favorites – strudels made with apple, cherries, prunes; Poppy seed cake, Quark Kaese torte, (cheese cake) and Kugels. And all this variety is going to be served with Schlagsahne – whipped cream……count on it!

After having a couple of plates of food, several beers, a dozen each of polkas and waltzes, throw in some stein hefting sing-alongs and you should be feeling like a Landsmann speaking with folks around your table about the “Old Country”. If you’re not then you haven’t got a pulse let alone Gemutlichkeit.

Nobody, but nobody, can be unmoved by that insinuating friendliness that is “Oompah-pah”.

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